
The organ that plays the Adriatic sea
Zadar is a mid-sized city on the Croatian coast, built on a narrow peninsula that juts into the Adriatic. The old town is compact and mostly car-free, with Roman ruins, medieval churches, and Venetian walls packed into a small area. The Sea Organ, a set of marble steps on the waterfront that produce sound from wave action through underwater pipes, is one of the more unusual public installations anywhere. Next to it, the Sun Salutation is a flat circle of solar-powered LED panels that light up at night. The fish market near the harbour is worth a look in the morning, and the green market behind it sells local cheese, dried figs, and olive oil. Black risotto made with cuttlefish ink is a Dalmatian staple and appears on most menus. The old town is small enough to walk end to end in 15 minutes. Coffee along the harbour wall, with a view of the islands, is standard local behaviour. The currency is the euro since Croatia's 2023 adoption.
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