Hakodate

Hakodate sits at the southern tip of Hokkaido, an old port city built on a narrow, hourglass-shaped peninsula. It was one of the first Japanese ports opened to foreign trade in 1854, and the Western influence still shows in the churches, consulates, and brick warehouses of the Motomachi district. The city's most recognisable landmark is Mount Hakodate, whose nighttime view over the illuminated city is ranked among Japan's best. The ropeway to the summit runs until evening, and the view at dusk is worth timing your visit around. Down at sea level, the Hakodate Morning Market opens early and sells squid skewers, uni (sea urchin), and kaisen-don rice bowls. Goryokaku, a star-shaped Western-style fort from the 1860s, is a pleasant walk through cherry trees in spring. The city has a tram system that connects most sights, and Yunokawa Onsen is a 20-minute ride east if you want a hot spring stop.