Kanazawa

Kanazawa sits on the Sea of Japan coast, backed by the Japan Alps. The city escaped bombing during World War II, so its older districts survived intact. Higashi Chaya is the geisha district, where wooden tea houses line narrow streets and you can watch gold leaf being applied to ceramics and sweets. Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan's gold leaf, and it turns up in everything from ice cream to chopsticks. Kenroku-en, one of Japan's three great gardens, is the main attraction and is worth the time. The adjacent Kanazawa Castle has been partially restored. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is unexpectedly strong for a city this size, with Leandro Erlich's swimming pool installation drawing crowds. Omicho Market is the place for fresh seafood, particularly crab and sushi. The city is compact enough that buses and walking cover most of it in a day.