
Denmark's sunshine island of smoked herring
Gudhjem is a fishing village on the northeast coast of Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic closer to Sweden than to the rest of Denmark. Houses are built into the granite hillside above a small harbour, and smokehouses along the waterfront cure herring the traditional way. The place gets more sun than mainland Scandinavia, which is why Danes have been calling it the "Sunshine Island" for over a century. Try the "Sol over Gudhjem," an open-faced sandwich with smoked herring, raw egg yolk, chives, and radish. Hammershus Castle, a 15-minute drive north, is the largest medieval fortress ruin in northern Europe and sits on a sea cliff with long views. The island's four round churches date from the 12th century and were built partly as defensive structures. Bornholm Art Museum displays work by painters who came for the light. Rent a bike to cover the island's trails, and pay in Danish kroner.
Top-rated shore excursions that fit a typical ~8h port call




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