
Captain Corelli's turquoise paradise
Kefalonia's capital, Argostoli, has a waterfront where fishing boats sit next to yachts and the smell of grilled fish drifts from harbour-side restaurants. The town was rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1953, so the architecture is mostly mid-20th century, but it has kept its energy. If your ship anchors offshore, you tender to the old harbour near a fish market where fishermen sell directly from their boats. Melissani Cave, about 20 minutes away, is a partially collapsed cave with an underground lake lit by sunlight through the roof. Myrtos Beach, further north, has white pebbles and deep blue water backed by high cliffs. The Robola wine region in the island's interior produces a crisp, dry white that pairs well with the local meat pies. Buses connect Argostoli to the main sites, though hiring a car gives more flexibility. The euro is the currency.
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