Rabaul

Rabaul sits inside a volcanic caldera on the Gazelle Peninsula of New Britain, Papua New Guinea. The 1994 eruption of Tavurvur buried much of the old town under ash, and the volcano still smokes visibly on the skyline. Ships anchor in Simpson Harbour, and passengers tender ashore to a town that has rebuilt itself around the edges of the destruction. The sulphur smell in the air is constant. Japanese tunnel networks from WWII are cut into the hillsides and open for guided tours. The harbour itself has several sunken warships from the war, and local dive operators take small groups to the wreck sites. The daily market sells betel nut, fresh fish, and tropical fruit, and is worth visiting for the atmosphere. Kokoda, a cold fish and coconut milk dish similar to ceviche, is the local speciality. Payment is in Papua New Guinean kina, and cash is essential for the market and small vendors.